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14th August
2000
written by maso

- Driving a Toyota, 4WD king cab, beat up truck. No seat belts. No emergency brakes (this is mountainous country). Beat up seats.

- Family with lots of packages, etc., were so excited about getting a free ride that they threw everything into the back, with the help of bystanders, including a kid – we heard thunk, waaaaaa.

- Scared to death driving so close to people, goats, cows tied along the road, chickens, carts, motorcycles with no road rules.

- Lots of thatched roofs.

- Hear roosters all night, thought I heard an old door hinge squeak — yeeeee – then I heard haaaw, yeeee haaaaw — a mule. Also heard goats bleating and people talking as they walk the mountain paths.

- Taxis were motorcycles, running people from Jeremie to the mountains, then there are tap-taps, compact trucks whit benches on each side, called tap-taps because you tap to get off. Cost a few cents, then there are cameons, cattle trucks which act as buses, and once in a while there is a real bus.

- Roads are potholes connected by craters.

- 99.9% black, walked through Saint Marc at night and saw only floating clothes.

- Storms over the massifs each night – beautiful.

- Dogs all skinny and short haired. Almost no cats.

- Fruit pits, from whatever’s in season, all over the paths. Often mangos.

- Fruit juice, fresh from a colander, each morning included pear, mango, passion fruit orange, grapefruit, pineapple.

- I loved hiking in the hills, looking over the ocean. I want to go backpacking there.

- Avocado trees in yards, as well as plantain, banana, mango, etc.

- Purplish stalks of sugar cane for sale on streets as candy.

- Claren, alcohol made from sugar cane. Liqueur made from local cocoa beans and claren coffee from mountains is strong but seems to have little caffeine.

- Most houses were cement block, often made on site, one block at a time.

- Doors and gates made by metal workers with hammers, saws and welders were along side of road not in buildings.

- School director shows us his school rubber stamp (his only token of pride) as we talk to him about supporting his school – tears came to our eyes.

- Nicole, Mason’s sister was beautiful, sweet, alone, at a beautiful mountain site with no road and 8 little kids in the yard.

- Old large cemetery stones, beautiful, haunting.

- Voodoo church and music heard from Madam Jacques’ porch.

- People dress better than Americans, yet are the poorest I the Western Hemisphere, and living in one of the most densely populated countries in the world – you’ve got to love them.

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